Do you know that the average Australian household uses roughly 18kWh of electricity a day? With power prices increasing every […]
Buying solar panels can feel like walking into a maze.
There are different types, materials, technologies, and designs. Each one promises something slightly different. But what really matters is how it fits your home, your roof, and the way you use electricity.
This guide breaks it all down.
It will show you the main panel types in Australia, what makes each one different, and why those differences actually matter when you make a decision.
No jargon you can’t use, just the things that affect your home and your bills.

Monocrystalline, or Mono-Si, solar panels are made from a single piece of silicon.
One thing about these solar panels is that they produce more electricity than other types because their solid crystal lets electricity flow smoothly.
This makes them an excellent choice for homes with smaller roof space and higher power needs.
Another thing about them is that they usually look black and sleek, with rounded or sometimes square cells, so you can easily recognise them through observation.
Finally, they handle heat well and continue to generate power even on cloudy days, providing a reliable source of energy regardless of the weather.
These look different from monocrystalline.
They’re blue and speckled, with a kind of mosaic pattern.
Manufacturers melt lots of silicon fragments together to make the cells ( that means they don’t use a single piece of silicon like in the above case).
Unlike in monocrystalline, electrons in polycrystalline move more slowly because of the grainy structure.
The panels are thus a bit less efficient. However, they have one major advantage you will probably like: low cost.
So, if your roof has ample space and you want to produce your own electricity affordably, this could be your choice.
Thin-film panels are the lightest ones.
They don’t look like the usual panels – they’re flat, slim, sometimes even flexible. People like them because they’re easy to install and not too pricey.
The trade-off is that you’ll need more space to get the same power. But they’re neat to look at and good for modern setups.
If you walk around Australian suburbs, most rooftops have Mono-Si panels. Why? Roofs are limited, and electricity is expensive.
Mono-Si gives the most electricity per square metre. Additionally, their prices have fallen over the years, making them a clear choice for homes and big projects.
Solar panels evolved in three main waves as follows:

These are the old panels made from silicon wafers. When sunlight hits them, electrons dislodge, and electricity flows. Mono and poly panels are in this group.
If you have seen solar panels on rooftops in Australia for a long time, these are the ones most people use.
Next are thin-film panels. They are lighter and sometimes flexible, so you can bend them to fit odd roof shapes. They are made from thin layers of materials like amorphous silicon, cadmium telluride, or CIGS.
Nevertheless, they do not produce as much electricity as the first generation. Therefore, you’d need more space for the same output. The good thing is they are cheaper and easier to handle.
Finally, there is the new generation. This includes Perovskite, Organic, Tandem, and Multi-Junction panels. Most of these are still being tested.
They promise better efficiency or new designs; however, most are not widely available yet, but they show what the future could look like.
Modern panels work better thanks to smarter cell designs. The current technology in them includes:
✅ PERC: These panels have a little reflective layer at the back. If sunlight slips through the silicon, it bounces back, so electrons get a second chance to make electricity. It’s a simple trick, but it helps the panel make more power.
✅ TOPCon: TOPCon panels have a thin oxide layer plus a layer of polysilicon. This means electrons don’t lose as much energy while moving around. The result? The panels handle heat better and last longer than most regular ones.
✅ HJT: HJT panels are a mix of crystalline silicon sandwiched between thin layers of amorphous silicon. They’re great in hot weather and keep efficiency high. The only downside is that they cost a bit more.
✅ IBC: With IBC panels, all the contacts are on the back. The front is smooth, clean, and black. That helps them catch as much light as possible, and they just look really nice on a roof.

Solar cells are split into P-type and N-type depending on how the silicon inside is treated.
“Doping” sounds complicated, but it just means adding tiny amounts of other elements to help electricity flow. You can’t see it on the panel, but it makes a real difference in performance.

These use boron to create a positive charge in the silicon. It helps electrons move when sunlight hits. Most rooftop panels are P-type. They work well, cost less, but slowly lose efficiency over the years.

These use phosphorus, which gives a negative charge. That makes them resist heat and sunlight damage better.
They stay efficient longer, though they cost more. If you want panels that keep producing power year after year, the N-type is worth the extra investment.
Buyers classify solar panels in terms of:
Solar panels aren’t one-size-fits-all. Where you plan to use them and what you want from them changes everything.

These are the ones you’ll see on most homes. They’re usually neat, black-framed monocrystalline panels using PERC or TOPCon technology.
Each one gives around 370 to 440 watts, which easily handles everyday power needs for lights, fridges, TVs, and even a washing machine or two.
They fit well on most rooftops and look clean while keeping your home powered up. Therefore, if you want reliable electricity without turning your roof into a science project, this is your go-to option.

Now, businesses play on a different level. Offices, factories, and warehouses consume lots of electricity quickly, so they need bigger, more powerful panels, usually with 72 cells or more.
The large rooftops make installation easier, and many companies even feed their extra power back into the grid. It’s a smart way to keep energy costs down while running energy-hungry operations smoothly.
Think solar farms. These are massive setups with hundreds or thousands of panels. Some are bifacial, meaning they catch sunlight on both sides.
The goal isn’t looks, it’s efficiency and producing lots of electricity at a lower cost per watt. These setups can power whole communities or feed into the national grid.


These panels are small and movable, perfect for caravans, camping, or remote locations. Foldable monocrystalline or thin-film types are common.
They won’t run a full house, but they can keep lights on, charge devices, and run small appliances. Basically, they give you electricity where the grid doesn’t reach.
✅ Standard Framed: These are the regular panels you see on most roofs. They’re stiff, have aluminium frames, and get the job done.
✅ Half-Cut Cell: The cells are cut in half. It sounds weird, but it actually helps the panel make a bit more electricity and deal with shading better.
✅ Bifacial: These panels can catch sunlight from both sides. Perfect for flat roofs or ground setups where light can reflect from below.
✅ Flexible or Rollable: Usually thin-film or lightweight mono panels. You can bend them a little, so they fit curved or unusual surfaces.
✅ BIPV: This is when panels replace roof tiles or glass parts of a building. Your roof looks normal, but it’s quietly making electricity for you.
Buying solar panels isn’t just about picking what’s popular or what’s cheapest. Every home works a bit differently, and the right choice depends on how you live, where you live, and what your roof can handle.
Once you consider the following key factors, it’s easier to see which system makes sense for your needs and which ones to avoid.
✅ Roof Space and Size
Start by looking at your roof. If space is tight, you can’t just fill it with any panel that fits. You need panels that squeeze the most power out of each square metre. Monocrystalline panels usually do that best.
A bigger roof gives you more freedom. You can install a larger system or mix panels to balance price and output. The shape of your roof matters too. Odd angles or vents can limit usable space, so get that checked early.
If you skip this step, you’ll often buy too many panels or ones that don’t perform as expected.
✅ Roof Orientation and Sun Exposure
How your roof faces the sun changes everything. North-facing roofs in Australia soak up the most sunlight during the day. East or west-facing roofs still work fine, but the panels might produce a bit less.
Shade is the silent thief here. A single branch or a nearby wall can drop your output more than you’d think. If your roof gets patchy sun, you’ll need panels that can keep producing even when one section is shaded.
Knowing how light moves across your roof helps you set up panels that actually perform.
✅ Budget
This part’s simple: buy what gives value, not just what saves you money today. Cheaper panels look good on paper, but many lose power faster. Quality panels cost more upfront, but they last longer and deliver better returns.
Before you decide, check for government rebates or STCs. These can cut costs by a fair bit and make premium panels more affordable.
Ask yourself how long you plan to stay in the home. Long-term owners usually get more back from investing in quality gear. Short-term owners might stick to a reliable, smaller system instead.
✅ Climate and Location
Panels react differently depending on where you live. Hot weather can knock efficiency down, so homes in hotter regions need models built to handle high temperatures.
If you live by the coast, salt and humidity can wear out cheap metal fast. Choose corrosion-resistant frames and fittings.
In cloudy or cooler areas, look for panels that still work well under weak sunlight. That one choice can keep your power stable all year.
Ignore the local climate, and you’ll likely end up with panels that fade or fail early.
✅ Energy Usage
Think about how your home actually uses power. If everyone’s out during the day, you don’t need a big system. A smaller one, or a setup that stores energy for night use, will make more sense.
Busy homes that run multiple appliances throughout the day need more panels to keep up.
If your roof gets shade, choose panels that can handle it without dragging the whole system down. Getting this part right means you only pay for what you need, and you use what you produce.
✅ Aesthetics
You’ll see your panels every day, so looks aren’t a small thing. All-black panels give a cleaner, more modern look. Blue ones stand out more and usually cost less.
If you plan to sell later, a neat-looking setup can help your home’s value. If not, choose what you’re happy seeing for the next 25 years.
It’s your roof. Make it work for you, visually and practically.
✅ Lifespan and Warranty
Panels don’t last forever, but good ones come close. Most stay reliable for 25 to 30 years. What matters is how well they hold their power over time.
Check both parts of the warranty: product and performance. Product covers faults. Performance guarantees that the panels will still produce a strong percentage of their rated power decades later.
If a brand won’t promise that, think twice. Warranties are the true test of quality.
✅ Brand Reputation and Installer Accreditation
Panels are only as good as the people behind them. Stick with brands that have a clear history in Australia and service you can actually reach. Avoid imports that disappear once something goes wrong.
Your installer matters just as much. Only use a Clean Energy Council-accredited installer. That indicates they follow proper standards and work safely.
A system installed correctly runs smoother, lasts longer, and saves you a lot of future headaches.
Knowing your solar panel options makes the whole buying process easier.
Each type has its own strengths, weaknesses, and quirks. Look at your roof, your energy use, and your budget, then match them to the panels that suit you best.
A system chosen with care doesn’t just cut your electricity bills. It runs reliably, lasts for decades, and gives you peace of mind every time the sun comes out.
That’s the kind of choice you’ll be glad you made.
For stable, reliable output in our variable Australian weather, you need Monocrystalline panels featuring advanced cell architectures like PERC or TOPCon. Their cell design significantly enhances low-irradiance performance.
This means the module sustains a far more consistent power yield during morning haze, heavy cloud cover, and throughout those crucial shoulder periods of the day, which standard cells struggle with.
Frankly, we advise against it.
Introducing panels with different characteristics (be it wattage, type, or age) often creates a voltage mismatch. This forces the entire system’s output to default to the limitations of the lowest common denominator.
If expansion is necessary, the cleaner engineering solution is to install a separate, dedicated system with its own inverter, or to use module-level power electronics (like micro-inverters) to ensure independent power optimisation.
It’s down to crystallisation structure.
Monocrystalline panels are fabricated from a single-crystal silicon ingot. This singular, uniform lattice structure facilitates superior electron flow.
Polycrystalline panels result from a casting process using multiple silicon fragments, creating internal grain boundaries.
These boundaries act as defects, escalating internal recombination losses and thus inherently capping the achievable efficiency.
TOPCon panels have a clever, special layer right on the back. This simple layer cuts down on energy loss, which means they produce more electricity, especially when the Aussie sun makes everything hot.
HJT is equally impressive. These panels use a unique mix of silicon layers to handle extreme heat effortlessly. Crucially, they lose very little power each year.
Simply put: these newer panels are much tougher, handle the heat better, and stay highly efficient for the long haul.
IBC panels are considered premium because of their unique design.
They move all the wires and contacts to the back of the panel. This makes the entire front surface perfectly clean, so it catches all the sunlight.
This is why they get the most power from a small roof space. They are the top choice when you need maximum power but don’t have a big roof.
The short answer: not directly.
STCs are based on your system’s total size in kilowatts (kW), not the panel model. But choosing high-efficiency panels helps.
They produce more electricity per panel, making it easier for your system to reach the maximum size (like 6.6 kW).
Hitting that maximum is important because it qualifies you for the biggest possible rebate.
It’s simple economics.
Solar panels themselves are quite affordable nowadays, but Australian labour costs are high. Polycrystalline panels are less powerful, meaning installers must spend more time mounting extra panels to reach the target power.
It saves everyone money and effort if they install fewer, stronger Monocrystalline panels instead. This financial reality has pushed Polycrystalline out of the market.
The short answer is typically no.