The dog’s paws click softly across the solid floorboards. A gentle breeze stirs the curtains, and the shade begins its […]
Just imagine it’s a chilly Aussie morning, you’re craving a long, hot shower… but instead, you step into a puddle near your water heater. That sinking feeling? Priceless.
You mutter a few choice words, grab a towel, and stare at the tank: Your hot water system is leaking.
Take a deep breath.
A leaking hot water system doesn’t always mean disaster.
In most cases, it’s something small:
A loose valve, worn-out fitting, or a pressure issue you can fix without calling in half the tradies in your suburb. Other times, it’s your tank politely telling you, “Hey, I’ve had a good run; maybe it’s time for retirement.”
In this guide, we’ll explain:
Let’s dive in (not literally, please; the floor’s already wet enough). But in our article

If you’re seeing puddles or drips around your tank, the cause could be anything from pressure buildup to corrosion. Here are the top offenders behind an Aussie homeowner’s dreaded “hot water system leaking” moment:
This little valve is your tank’s safety guard; it releases extra heat or pressure.
If you see it dripping constantly, it may be faulty or full of mineral deposits.

How to Fix: Turn off the power and cold-water inlet, lift the valve’s lever for a few seconds to flush out debris, and see if it stops. If not, replace the valve (about $30–$60). Always wrap the threads with Teflon tape for a tight seal.
Hot water systems expand and contract over time. The inlet (cold water) and outlet (hot water) fittings at the top may loosen, causing slow leaks.
How to Fix: Turn off power, tighten gently with a wrench, and reseal with plumber’s tape if needed. Avoid overtightening, which can crack fittings and worsen the leak.
This valve, found near the bottom, lets you flush the tank for cleaning. But if it’s not closed tightly or has worn threads, it’ll drip.
How to Fix: Close it snugly. Still leaking? Attach a garden hose cap or replace the valve entirely; cheap, quick, and effective.
If you notice rust stains or reddish water, your tank might be corroded inside. Once corrosion eats through the lining, leaks follow, and no patch can fix that.
How to Fix: Sadly, that’s a replacement job. A standard 250L electric system costs around $1,200–$1,800 installed in 2025.
If your mains water pressure is too high (above 500kPa), it can trigger your safety valves to constantly leak.
How to Fix: A plumber can install a pressure-reducing valve for $200–$350. It’ll save your system (and your sanity).
Sometimes your “hot water system leaking” isn’t leaking at all; it’s just condensation forming on the cool tank surface.
How to Fix: Wipe it dry and watch for new moisture. If it reappears evenly across the surface, it’s likely condensation. Improve ventilation or insulate nearby pipes to reduce it.
Before calling a plumber, grab a towel, flashlight, and your detective hat. Here’s how to find where the leak’s coming from:

| Leak Point | Location on Tank | Appearance of Leak |
|---|---|---|
| Drain Valve Leak | Located at the very bottom edge of the tank. It is usually a brass or plastic valve with a threaded spout (where a garden hose is attached for draining). | Drips or a slow stream of water coming directly from the valve spout or the stem. |
| T&P (Temperature and Pressure) Relief Valve Leak | Located high up on the side of the tank, usually near the top. It has a discharge pipe (a metal or plastic pipe) running down the side of the tank, often ending a few inches above the floor. | Water drips or runs out of the end of the discharge pipe. |
| Corrosion/Pinhole Leaks | Can occur anywhere on the main body of the metal tank, though often first appear near the bottom where sediment settles and corrosion is accelerated. | Tiny, isolated streams or pin-sized drops of water coming directly through the side of the metal jacket. |
Mop or towel up any standing water and wait 10 minutes. New drips will show you the source.
Look at the inlet, outlet, and valves for moisture.
Rust or bubbling paint near the bottom usually means internal corrosion.
Sometimes, it’s not your tank at all. A leaking pipe or condensation from another source might be fooling you.

Australia loves a bit of DIY spirit, but remember: Water + electricity = danger.
Here’s what you can and can’t do safely when your hot water system is leaking:
✅ Go Ahead and Try:
❌ Leave to the Pros:
If in doubt, call a licensed plumber. It’s safer and cheaper than a flooded garage.
If your hot water system keeps leaking despite repairs, it may be waving a white flag.
Want to stop future leaks before they start? Follow these simple maintenance tips:
Attach a hose to the drain valve and run cold water through until it flows clear. This removes sediment and prevents pressure issues.
Lift the lever slightly to ensure it releases water, then reseats without dripping.
This metal rod sacrifices itself to prevent corrosion. Check every 3–5 years if half gone, replace it.
This is hot enough to prevent bacterial growth but not so hot that it stresses the system.
Good airflow prevents condensation and corrosion, especially if your system is in a garage or cupboard.
Call a licensed professional if:
Check the official Australian government register:
Always ask for a written quote, and ensure they dispose of your old unit responsibly.
If your old tank’s on its last legs, consider upgrading to something modern, energy-efficient, and eco-friendly.
Heat Pump Hot Water Systems
Solar Hot Water Systems
These systems don’t just stop the leaking drama, they’ll make your energy bills look friendlier too.
Even the handiest DIYers can slip up when dealing with a hot water system leak. Watch out for these traps:
A hot water system leaking isn’t just about wasted water: It’s about stress, rising bills, and a wet floor you didn’t ask for. But here’s the good news: most leaks are simple, fixable, and preventable with a bit of know-how.
So next time you hear that tell-tale drip, don’t panic. Grab your wrench, shut off the power, and play detective. Whether it’s a loose valve or a tank ready for retirement, you now know what to do and when to call the experts.
Because in the end, every Aussie deserves hot water without the drama, and a bathroom floor that stays dry.
This usually happens when the water expands as it heats up, increasing internal pressure. If your system doesn’t have an expansion tank or the pressure relief valve is worn out, that pressure escapes as a leak. Installing a new valve or expansion tank can solve this quickly.
A small trickle during heating is normal; it means your pressure valve is working correctly. But if water flows constantly, that valve is likely stuck or faulty. It’s a cheap part to replace but should be fixed fast to prevent energy waste and water damage.
Yes, and often by more than you’d expect. Even slow leaks make your system work harder to maintain water temperature, which means it’s reheating more often. That constant energy use adds up quickly on your bill.
Not recommended. Using hot water adds more pressure to the system and could worsen the leak. For safety, switch off both the power (or gas) and the water supply, then investigate the cause or call a plumber.
Most times, it’s due to poor installation or loose fittings. Sometimes, new systems drip slightly as the valves settle, that’s normal for a few hours. But continuous dripping or pooling water means something isn’t sealed correctly and should be checked immediately.
If the leak is from a fitting or valve, you can shut off the cold-water supply and gently tighten the connection. Avoid using tape or sealant on the tank itself, those fixes don’t last under heat or pressure. For major leaks, always get a professional.
Regular maintenance is the secret. Check for rust or moisture every few months, flush out sediment once a year, test your pressure valve, and replace your anode rod every 2–3 years. A little upkeep goes a long way toward avoiding costly leaks and early replacements.